Yes, a cordless drill can go through concrete, but it needs the right type of drill and the correct technique. Standard cordless drills are not designed for concrete; you’ll need a hammer drill or a rotary hammer with a masonry bit for effective drilling.
Ever stared at a concrete wall and wondered if your trusty cordless drill could handle it? Many DIYers face this exact question when planning projects, from hanging shelves to mounting fixtures. It’s a common point of confusion because not all drills are created equal when it comes to tough materials like concrete. Using the wrong tool can lead to frustration, wasted time, and even damage to your drill. But don’t worry! With the right information and a few simple tips, you can confidently tackle concrete drilling tasks. Let’s walk through exactly what you need to know to get the job done right.
Understanding Your Cordless Drill and Concrete
Before we dive into the “how-to,” it’s crucial to understand why a regular cordless drill often struggles with concrete and what makes certain drills better suited for the task.
What is Concrete?
Concrete is a composite material made from cement, aggregate (like gravel and sand), and water. When it hardens, it forms a very dense and hard substance. This density is what makes it so durable but also challenging to penetrate.
Why Standard Cordless Drills Aren’t Ideal for Concrete
Most standard cordless drills are designed for softer materials like wood, drywall, and metal. They primarily rotate the drill bit. While some might have a basic “hammer” setting, it’s usually a very light action that’s insufficient for breaking through the hardened cement and aggregate in concrete. Trying to force a standard drill through concrete can:
Overheat the motor: The drill’s motor works too hard, leading to overheating and potential damage.
Burn out the drill: Excessive strain can permanently damage the drill’s internal components.
Break drill bits: Standard drill bits will likely snap or become blunt very quickly.
Be incredibly slow and ineffective: You’ll barely make any progress, if at all.
The Right Tools for Drilling Concrete
To successfully drill into concrete with a cordless tool, you need a drill with a specific feature: hammer action. This is where the distinction between different types of cordless drills becomes vital.
1. Cordless Hammer Drill
A cordless hammer drill is your go-to for most DIY concrete drilling needs. It combines rotation with a percussive hammering action.
How it works: When in hammer mode, the drill’s internal mechanism creates thousands of rapid, short impacts per minute, alongside the rotation. This hammering action effectively chips away at the concrete as the bit turns, allowing for much faster and easier penetration.
When to use it: Ideal for drilling holes for anchors, screws, and bolts in concrete walls, floors, and sidewalks for tasks like mounting shelves, curtain rods, or light fixtures.
What to look for:
Variable Speed Control: Allows you to start slowly and increase speed as needed.
Torque Settings: Helps prevent over-tightening when using screws.
Battery Voltage: Higher voltage (e.g., 18V or 20V) generally means more power and longer run time.
Hammer Rate (BPM – Blows Per Minute): A higher BPM generally means faster drilling.
2. Cordless Rotary Hammer
For more demanding tasks or harder concrete, a cordless rotary hammer is the superior choice. These are more powerful than hammer drills and are designed specifically for masonry work.
How it works: Rotary hammers use a piston mechanism to deliver a much stronger, more forceful hammering blow than a hammer drill. They also rotate the bit. The combination is significantly more effective at breaking through dense concrete and even stone.
When to use it: Best for drilling larger diameter holes, deeper holes, demolition tasks, or when working with very hard concrete or brick. Think drilling for large anchors, concrete screws, or even light demolition.
What to look for:
SDS (Slotted Drive System) Chuck: SDS bits lock into the chuck and allow for more efficient power transfer and shock absorption. There are different SDS types (SDS-Plus, SDS-Max), with SDS-Plus being common for most cordless rotary hammers.
Multiple Modes: Usually includes rotation only, hammering with rotation, and hammering only (for chiseling).
Impact Energy (Joules): A higher Joule rating indicates more power.
Important Note: While a cordless drill can go through concrete, it’s essential to use the correct type of cordless drill (hammer drill or rotary hammer) and the correct drill bit.
The Essential Drill Bit: Masonry Bits
You cannot use a standard wood or metal drill bit to drill into concrete. You need a masonry drill bit.
What are Masonry Bits? These bits are specifically designed for drilling into hard materials like concrete, brick, stone, and mortar.
Key Feature: Carbide Tip: Masonry bits have a tip made of extremely hard carbide, often tungsten carbide. This tip is brazed or welded onto the steel shaft of the bit. The carbide tip is what allows the bit to effectively chip away at the concrete.
Types of Masonry Bits:
Standard Masonry Bits: Suitable for hammer drills and lighter concrete work. They typically have a single flute and a chisel-like carbide tip.
Masonry Bits for Rotary Hammers (SDS Bits): These have a specific shank design that mates with an SDS chuck, allowing for more direct power transfer and better dust removal. They often have specialized flute designs and more robust carbide tips.
Size Matters: Masonry bits come in various diameters. Choose the size appropriate for the anchor or fastener you intend to use. For example, if you’re using a 1/4-inch anchor, you’ll likely need a 1/4-inch masonry bit. Always check the anchor manufacturer’s recommendations.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Drill Concrete with a Cordless Hammer Drill
Here’s how to effectively drill into concrete using a cordless hammer drill and a masonry bit.
Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Safety Gear
Cordless Hammer Drill: Ensure it’s fully charged.
Masonry Drill Bit: The correct size and type for your task.
Safety Glasses: Absolutely essential to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Work Gloves: For better grip and protection.
Dust Mask: Concrete dust can be harmful to inhale.
Measuring Tape and Pencil: For marking your drilling location.
Level: To ensure your holes are straight.
Optional: Vacuum Cleaner: To clean up dust as you go.
Optional: Center Punch and Hammer: To create a small indentation for the drill bit to start.
Step 2: Mark Your Drilling Location
Use your measuring tape and pencil to mark exactly where you want to drill.
Use a level to ensure the mark is straight if necessary.
Pro Tip: For cleaner starts and to prevent the bit from “walking” (slipping) across the surface, lightly tap a center punch at your mark with a hammer. This creates a small divot for the drill bit to grip.
Step 3: Prepare Your Hammer Drill
Insert the Masonry Bit:
Open the chuck by twisting it (or pressing a collar, depending on your drill model).
Insert the shank of the masonry bit firmly into the chuck.
Close the chuck tightly, ensuring the bit is securely held.
Select the Correct Mode:
Locate the mode selector switch on your drill (it often looks like a symbol of a hammer or a drill bit).
Crucially, set your drill to the HAMMER mode. This is usually indicated by a hammer icon. If you see a drill bit icon, that’s standard drilling. If you see a hammer with a circular arrow, that’s rotary hammer action.
Do NOT use the hammer function if you are drilling into wood, drywall, or metal.
Set the Speed (If Applicable):
Most hammer drills have a variable speed trigger. Start with a slower speed to get the bit started and then increase it as needed.
Step 4: Start Drilling
Position the Drill: Place the tip of the masonry bit directly onto your marked spot (or the divot made by the center punch).
Apply Firm, Steady Pressure: Hold the drill with both hands, applying firm, consistent pressure directly into the concrete. Don’t lean excessively hard, but maintain steady force.
Start Slowly: Begin drilling at a slow speed. As the bit begins to bite into the concrete, you can gradually increase the speed.
Keep the Drill Straight: Try to keep the drill as perpendicular (90 degrees) to the surface as possible. A slight angle can make drilling harder and potentially break the bit.
Step 5: Drill and Clear Debris
Maintain Pressure and Speed: Continue drilling, maintaining firm pressure and a consistent speed.
Withdraw and Clear Debris Periodically: After drilling about 1/2 to 1 inch deep, pull the drill bit partially out of the hole while it’s still spinning slowly. This helps clear the dust and debris from the hole and prevents the bit from overheating.
You can blow the dust out of the hole using compressed air or a vacuum cleaner.
Never try to clear dust by blowing into the hole with your mouth; concrete dust is harmful.
Repeat: Continue drilling in short bursts, withdrawing to clear dust as needed, until you reach your desired depth.
Step 6: Finishing and Cleanup
Reach Desired Depth: Once you’ve reached the required depth, stop the drill.
Clean the Hole: Thoroughly clean the hole of all dust. This is critical for the proper holding power of anchors. You can use a vacuum cleaner with a narrow attachment or a specialized hole cleaning brush.
Insert Anchor/Fastener: Insert your anchor or fastener into the clean hole.
Clean Your Tools: Wipe down your drill and bits.
Drilling Deeper or Larger Holes: Considerations
Drilling Deeper Holes:
Use a Longer Bit: Ensure your masonry bit is long enough to reach the required depth, plus a little extra for clearance.
Clear Debris More Frequently: For deeper holes, you’ll need to withdraw the bit more often to clear out accumulated dust and debris. This is crucial for preventing overheating and binding.
Drilling Larger Diameter Holes:
Use a Hammer Drill with Higher Power: For holes larger than 1/2 inch, a more powerful hammer drill (higher voltage, higher BPM) is recommended.
Consider a Rotary Hammer: For holes 1/2 inch and larger, especially if the concrete is hard, a cordless rotary hammer with an SDS bit is significantly more efficient and less strenuous on the tool.
Pilot Hole: For very large diameter holes, it’s often best to drill a smaller pilot hole first (e.g., 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch) and then use a larger bit to enlarge it to the final size. This makes the process much easier and reduces the risk of the larger bit wandering.
When to Use a Rotary Hammer Instead
While a cordless hammer drill is excellent for many tasks, there are situations where a cordless rotary hammer is the better, or even necessary, tool:
Drilling Large Diameter Holes: If you need to drill holes 1/2 inch (12mm) or larger, especially for heavy-duty anchors or bolts.
Drilling Deep Holes: For holes deeper than a few inches, the increased power and efficiency of a rotary hammer are beneficial.
Hard Concrete or Stone: If you know you’re dealing with exceptionally hard concrete, granite, or other dense masonry, a rotary hammer will save you time and effort.
Frequent Masonry Work: If you anticipate doing a lot of drilling in concrete or masonry, investing in a good cordless rotary hammer is worthwhile.
Demolition Tasks: Rotary hammers often have a “chisel-only” mode, making them useful for light demolition, such as removing old tile or chipping away concrete.
Maintaining Your Tools for Concrete Drilling
Proper maintenance ensures your tools last and perform effectively.
Clean Your Drill: After each use, especially after drilling concrete, wipe down your drill to remove dust. Pay attention to vents.
Inspect Drill Bits: Check masonry bits for wear and tear. If the carbide tip is chipped or significantly worn, replace the bit.
Keep Batteries Charged: Ensure your batteries are charged before starting any project.
Store Properly: Store your drill and bits in a clean, dry place.
Safety First: Always Prioritize Protection
Drilling concrete can be dusty and potentially hazardous if proper precautions aren’t taken.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses are non-negotiable. Concrete dust and chips can cause serious eye injury.
Respiratory Protection: Wear a dust mask or respirator, especially when drilling into older concrete or in enclosed spaces. Long-term inhalation of silica dust, found in concrete, can lead to serious lung conditions.
Hearing Protection: While cordless drills are generally quieter than corded ones, the hammering action can still be loud. Consider earplugs or earmuffs for prolonged use.
Secure Your Workpiece: If you are drilling into something that can be moved, ensure it is stable. For walls or floors, the structure itself is your workpiece.
* Be Aware of What’s Behind the Wall: Before drilling into walls, check for electrical wires or plumbing pipes. Use a stud finder with AC detection capabilities if necessary.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: Can my regular cordless drill go through concrete?
A1: A standard cordless drill without a hammer function will struggle immensely and is not recommended for drilling concrete. You need a cordless hammer drill or a rotary hammer.
Q2: What kind of drill bit do I need for concrete?
A2: You must use a masonry drill bit. These bits have a carbide tip designed to cut through hard materials like concrete and brick.
Q3: How do I know if my drill has a hammer function?
A3: Look for a mode selector switch on the drill body. It will usually have symbols indicating a drill bit (for standard drilling), a hammer (for hammer drilling), and sometimes a hammer with a circular arrow (for rotary hammer action).
Q4: How long will a masonry bit last when drilling concrete?
A4: The lifespan of a masonry bit depends on the hardness of the concrete, the depth and diameter of the holes, and how the drill is used. Clearing debris frequently and not overheating the bit will prolong its life. Expect to replace bits over time with regular use.
Q5: Is it okay to use the hammer function on my drill when drilling wood?
A5: No, never use the hammer function when drilling into wood, metal, or drywall. The hammering action will damage the material and the drill bit. Always ensure the drill is set to the correct mode for the material you are working with.
Q6: My drill bit is getting very hot. What should I do?
A6: If your drill bit is overheating, it means the drill is working too hard or you’re not clearing debris effectively. Stop drilling, let the bit cool down, and try drilling in shorter bursts, withdrawing the bit more frequently to clear dust. Ensure you are using the hammer function correctly and applying consistent pressure.
Q7: What’s the difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer?
A7: A hammer drill uses a mechanism that creates thousands of light impacts per minute, suitable for lighter concrete tasks. A rotary hammer uses a piston system for much more powerful impacts, ideal for larger holes, deeper drilling, and harder materials. Rotary hammers typically use SDS bits for better power transfer.
Conclusion
So, can a cordless drill go through concrete? Yes, absolutely, but only if it’s the right kind of cordless drill and you use the correct accessories and technique. By understanding the difference between a standard drill, a hammer drill, and a rotary hammer, and by always using a masonry bit, you can confidently tackle your concrete drilling projects. Remember to prioritize safety by wearing your protective gear, and keep your tools well-maintained for the best results. Happy drilling!
