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Yes, You Can Drill Into Concrete Without a Hammer Drill! Here’s How
Yes, you can drill into concrete without a hammer drill. For small holes (under 1/2 inch), a regular drill with a new, high-quality masonry bit will work. The key is to use firm pressure, a slow speed, and to pull the drill bit out often to clear dust and prevent overheating.
Do you need to hang a picture? Maybe install a shelf on a concrete wall?
You grab your trusty drill. Then you stop. Can a regular drill even go through something as hard as concrete? It’s a common question that stops many DIY projects right in their tracks.
Many people think you need a special, expensive hammer drill. But for simple tasks, you can absolutely use the drill you already own. You just need the right technique and one special, inexpensive accessory.
We will show you exactly how to do it, step by step. Let’s get you ready to tackle that concrete wall with confidence.
When Can You Use a Regular Drill for Concrete?
First, let’s set some realistic expectations. A regular drill is not a perfect substitute for a hammer drill in every situation. A hammer drill works by both spinning and punching the concrete with thousands of tiny hammer-like blows per minute, making it incredibly efficient.
A regular drill only spins. This means you are relying purely on friction and pressure to grind away the material.
You can use a regular drill for concrete when:
- Drilling small holes: This method is best for holes up to about 1/2 inch (13mm) in diameter. These are perfect for plastic wall anchors, small screws (like for picture frames), or Tapcon screws.
- Drilling shallow holes: If you only need to go an inch or two deep, a regular drill can handle it.
- Working with softer concrete: Cinder blocks, mortar joints, and newer, less-cured concrete are much easier to drill than old, hardened foundation walls.
- You only have a few holes to drill: If you need to drill dozens of holes, renting or buying a hammer drill will save you a massive amount of time and effort.
If your project involves large holes, very hard or old concrete, or a lot of drilling, you should seriously consider a hammer drill. For everything else, your regular drill is up to the task.
The Secret Weapon: Choosing the Right Drill Bit
You cannot, under any circumstances, use a standard wood or metal drill bit on concrete. It will become dull in seconds, overheat, and possibly snap. The absolute key to this entire process is using a masonry drill bit.
What makes a masonry bit different? It has a very hard tip, usually made of tungsten carbide, that is designed to grind and pulverize hard materials like concrete, brick, and stone. You can easily spot one by its arrow-shaped or spade-shaped head.
Key Features of a Good Masonry Bit:
- Carbide Tip: Look for “carbide-tipped” on the packaging. This is non-negotiable.
- Fresh and Sharp: A new, sharp bit cuts faster and cooler. If you’ve used your bit on a few projects already, consider getting a new one. They are inexpensive and make a huge difference.
- Correct Size: Match the bit size to the anchor or screw you plan to use. It’s often written on the anchor’s packaging.
Think of the masonry bit as the real tool here; your drill is just the motor that turns it. Investing a few extra dollars in a quality bit from a brand like Bosch or DeWalt will pay off.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Let’s gather everything before you start. Having it all on hand makes the job go much smoother.
- ✅ A Regular Drill: A corded drill is highly recommended. It provides consistent, high power and won’t die mid-hole. A powerful cordless drill can work, but make sure the battery is fully charged.
- ✅ Carbide-Tipped Masonry Drill Bits: Get the right size for your project, and maybe a smaller one to drill a pilot hole first.
- ✅ Safety Glasses: Concrete dust and chips can fly out of the hole. This is a must.
- ✅ Dust Mask or Respirator: Inhaling concrete dust (silica) is hazardous. Protect your lungs. You can learn more about silica safety from OSHA.
- ✅ Tape Measure & Pencil: For accurate marking.
- ✅ Painter’s Tape: A great trick for marking drilling depth on your bit.
- ✅ Hammer & Nail Set (or a sturdy nail): To create a starting “dimple” so your drill bit doesn’t wander.
- ✅ Shop Vacuum or Canned Air: For clearing dust from the hole.
- ✅ Small Cup of Water: To cool the drill bit and prevent it from overheating.
How to Drill Into Concrete Without a Hammer Drill: Step-by-Step Guide
Alright, you have your tools and you’re ready to go. Follow these steps carefully for a clean, successful hole.
Step 1: Put on Your Safety Gear
Before you even plug in the drill, put on your safety glasses and dust mask. Concrete drilling is messy and can be dangerous to your eyes and lungs. No excuses!
Step 2: Mark Your Spot and Depth
Measure and mark the exact spot you want to drill with your pencil. Then, determine how deep you need to drill. Hold the wall anchor or screw next to your drill bit and wrap a piece of painter’s tape around the bit to mark the target depth. When the edge of the tape reaches the wall, you’ll know you’ve drilled deep enough.
Step 3: Create a Pilot “Dimple”
Concrete surfaces are often smooth, and a drill bit loves to “walk” or wander when you first start. To prevent this, take your nail set (or a sturdy nail), place the tip on your pencil mark, and give it a firm tap with a hammer. This creates a small indentation that will hold your drill bit perfectly in place as you begin.
Step 4: Insert the Masonry Bit and Set Your Drill
Secure the masonry bit tightly in your drill’s chuck. If your drill has a speed setting, choose a low to medium speed. High speeds create too much heat and will burn out your bit without actually drilling any faster.
Step 5: Start Drilling with Firm, Steady Pressure
Place the tip of the bit into the dimple you made. Start the drill at a very slow speed. Once it bites into the concrete, you can increase the speed slightly. Lean into the drill, applying firm, consistent pressure. Let the bit do the work; don’t try to force it too hard. Keep the drill straight and perpendicular to the wall.
Step 6: Clear Debris As You Go
This is the most important step for success with a regular drill. After every 10-15 seconds of drilling, pull the bit all the way out of the hole while it’s still spinning slowly. This action helps draw out the concrete dust. An accumulation of dust in the hole creates more friction and heat, dulling your bit and slowing progress. For deeper holes, use your shop-vac or a puff of canned air to clean the hole out completely before continuing.
Pro-Tip: The “in-and-out” motion is your best friend. Drill for 10 seconds, pull out for 2 seconds, repeat. This pumping action is a manual substitute for what a hammer drill does automatically, helping to break up and clear material.
Step 7: Keep the Drill Bit Cool
Friction creates intense heat, which is the number one enemy of your drill bit. The bit will get very hot. Every minute or so, pull the bit out and dip the tip into your cup of water for a few seconds. You’ll hear a satisfying sizzle. This cools the carbide tip, preserving its sharpness and extending its life. Never touch the bit with your bare hands—it will be extremely hot.
Step 8: Finish the Hole and Clean Up
Continue the process of drilling, clearing dust, and cooling the bit until your painter’s tape marker is flush with the wall. Once you’ve reached your desired depth, give the hole one final, thorough cleaning with a vacuum to ensure your anchor or screw will fit snugly. Now you’re ready to install your hardware!
When to Stop and Get a Hammer Drill
Sometimes, you have to know when to call it. If you encounter any of the following, it’s time to stop and get the right tool for the job.
Stop immediately if:
- You hit something impenetrable. If your bit stops making any progress and just spins, you have likely hit a piece of very hard aggregate (stone) or, more importantly, steel rebar. Do NOT try to force it. Drilling into rebar can damage the structural integrity of the concrete and ruin your bit. Try drilling a new hole an inch or two away.
- The drill is smoking or smells hot. You are either pushing too hard, your bit is completely dull, or the drill’s motor can’t handle the load. Give the drill a rest.
- It’s taking forever. If you’ve been drilling for several minutes and have only made it a quarter-inch deep, the concrete is likely too hard for this method. A hammer drill would get the job done in seconds.
You’ve Got This!
Drilling into concrete doesn’t have to be an intimidating task that requires a new tool purchase. By using a fresh masonry drill bit, a little bit of patience, and the right technique—drilling slow, clearing dust, and keeping the bit cool—you can successfully use your regular drill for many common household projects.
So next time you need to hang that heavy mirror or install a sturdy shelf on a concrete or brick wall, don’t hesitate. You have the knowledge and the skill to do it yourself. Happy drilling!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Can I use a regular wood or metal drill bit for concrete?
No, absolutely not. A standard drill bit is made of softer steel and is designed to shave or cut material away. Concrete is abrasive and will destroy a regular bit in seconds. You must use a carbide-tipped masonry bit, which is designed to grind and pulverize hard materials.
2. How long does it take to drill into concrete with a regular drill?
It depends heavily on the hardness of the concrete and the size of the hole. A 1/4-inch hole that is 1.5 inches deep might take 2-5 minutes with a regular drill. The same hole would likely take a hammer drill less than 20 seconds. Patience is key.
3. What’s the best regular drill to use for concrete?
A corded drill is always the best choice. It delivers more consistent torque and power without you having to worry about a battery dying. If you only have a cordless drill, use a high-quality one (18V or higher) with a fully charged, large-capacity battery.
4. What if I hit something really hard in the concrete?
Stop drilling immediately. You have likely hit a piece of hard aggregate (stone) or steel rebar. Forcing the drill can burn out your motor or break the bit. The safest option is to abandon that hole and try drilling a new one at least an inch away.
5. Can a cordless drill go through concrete?
Yes, a modern, powerful cordless drill (18V or 20V) can drill small holes in softer concrete or brick, provided you use a sharp masonry bit and follow all the steps above (slow speed, clearing dust, etc.). It will drain the battery quickly, so have a spare ready.
6. Why is my drill bit getting so hot?
The heat comes from friction. Your drill bit is grinding away at a very hard surface, and that process generates a lot of heat. This is normal, but excessive heat will ruin the temper of the bit, making it soft and useless. That’s why cooling it with water and clearing dust (which reduces friction) is so critical to success.
7. Is it better to start with a smaller drill bit?
Yes, this is a great pro technique. If you need a 1/2-inch hole, for example, start by drilling a 1/4-inch pilot hole first. It’s much easier for the drill to remove material when widening an existing hole than it is to create a large hole from scratch.
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