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Can You Drill Into Concrete With a Regular Drill? Yes! Here’s How
Yes, you can drill into concrete with a regular drill. The key is to use a special masonry drill bit with a tungsten carbide tip. For small jobs, go slow, apply firm pressure, and pull the drill bit out often to clear dust and prevent overheating. A regular drill will work, but it will be slower than a hammer drill.
Have you ever tried to hang a picture or a shelf on a concrete wall? You grab your trusty drill, press the trigger, and… nothing happens. The drill just whines and the wall just sits there, laughing at you. It’s a common and frustrating problem.
Many people think you need to buy an expensive, heavy-duty hammer drill to make a simple hole in concrete. But that’s not always true! You are in the right place. We will show you how to use the drill you already own to conquer that concrete wall.
Let’s walk through the right tools, techniques, and safety steps to get the job done easily and safely.
First, Why Is Concrete So Hard to Drill?
Before we start drilling, it helps to know what you’re up against. Concrete isn’t like wood or drywall. It’s a mix of sand, gravel (also called aggregate), and cement that hardens into a rock-solid material.
When you drill, you aren’t just cutting through one substance. You are grinding through hard, tiny rocks and tough cement. A normal drill bit, designed for wood or metal, just spins against these materials. It can’t bite into them. It will quickly become dull and overheat.
This is why you need a special tool for the job. But that tool isn’t always a new drill—it’s a new drill bit.
The Real Secret: Using a Masonry Drill Bit
The single most important thing you need to drill into concrete is a masonry drill bit. Without it, you will fail. It’s that simple.
What Makes a Masonry Bit Different?
- The Tip: Look at the very end of a masonry bit. You’ll see a small, arrow-shaped head that is wider than the shaft. This tip is made of tungsten carbide, an extremely hard material that can chip and grind away at concrete and stone.
- The Flutes: The deep, wide spiral grooves (called flutes) on a masonry bit are designed to pull the heavy concrete dust out of the hole as you drill. This is critical for preventing the drill from getting stuck.
Using a regular drill bit on concrete will ruin the bit and won’t make a hole. You can find masonry bits at any hardware store, and they are not expensive. They are the best investment you can make for this project.
Regular Drill vs. Hammer Drill: What’s the Difference?
While you can use a regular drill, it’s good to know what other tools are out there. This helps you understand the limits of your own drill.
- Regular Drill: This is what most people have. It spins the drill bit very fast. With a masonry bit, it grinds away at the concrete. It works, but it requires patience and muscle. Best for a few small holes (e.g., hanging a small picture).
- Hammer Drill: A hammer drill does two things at once. It spins the bit AND punches it forward in a rapid hammering motion (thousands of blows per minute). This combination pulverizes the concrete much faster than spinning alone. It makes the job much easier.
- Rotary Hammer (SDS Drill): This is the professional-grade tool. It uses a powerful piston mechanism for a much stronger hammering action. It blasts through concrete with ease. You would rent one of these for big jobs, like drilling many large holes.
Pro Tip: If your regular drill has a “hammer” icon on its speed setting, you have a hammer drill! Make sure to switch it to that mode for drilling into concrete. If not, don’t worry—the standard “drill” mode will still work, just more slowly.
Your Checklist: Tools and Materials
Gathering your tools before you start makes the process smooth and safe. Here’s what you’ll need.
Tools & Gear
- A standard electric drill (a corded drill is usually more powerful and better for this job than a cordless one)
- Masonry drill bits (get a set with multiple sizes)
- Tape measure
- Pencil or marker
- Masking tape or painter’s tape
- Safety glasses (non-negotiable!)
- Dust mask (N95-rated is best)
- A shop vacuum with a hose, or a small cup and envelope
- A small cup of cold water
Step-by-Step: How to Drill Concrete With a Regular Drill
Ready to make some dust? Follow these steps carefully for a clean, successful hole.
Step 1: Put on Your Safety Gear
Safety First! Concrete dust contains crystalline silica, which is very harmful to your lungs if inhaled. Always wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris and a good-quality dust mask. There are no exceptions to this rule. For more information, you can review the OSHA guidelines on silica dust safety.
Put on your glasses and mask before you even plug in the drill. Open a window for ventilation if you are working indoors.
Step 2: Measure and Mark Your Spot
Use your tape measure to find the exact spot where you want to drill. Mark it clearly with a pencil or a marker. A small “X” is perfect.
Tip: To prevent your drill bit from “walking” or slipping when you start, you can place a small piece of masking tape over the “X”. This gives the bit something to grip.
Step 3: Prepare Your Drill Bit
First, choose the right size masonry bit. It should match the size of the wall anchor or screw you plan to use. The packaging for the anchor will tell you what size bit you need.
Next, determine how deep you need to drill. The hole should be slightly deeper than the length of your screw or anchor. Measure this length on your drill bit from the tip down, and wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit to mark the depth. When the tape reaches the wall, you know you’ve drilled deep enough.
Step 4: Start Drilling Slowly
Insert the masonry bit into your drill and tighten the chuck securely. Place the tip of the bit directly on your marked “X”.
Begin drilling at a very low speed. This creates a small starting divot and prevents the bit from skidding across the wall surface. Once the bit has bitten into the concrete and the hole is started, you can increase the speed.
Step 5: Apply Firm, Steady Pressure
Now it’s time to apply pressure. Lean into the drill, using your body weight to push it straight into the wall. You need firm, consistent pressure, but don’t try to force it. Let the spinning, grinding action of the masonry bit do the work. Keep the drill perfectly perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the wall.
Step 6: Use the In-and-Out Technique
This is the most important technique for drilling concrete with a regular drill. Every 10-15 seconds, pull the spinning drill bit partially out of the hole and then push it back in.
Why? This action helps pull the thick concrete dust out of the hole. If the dust builds up, it will create friction, overheat your drill bit, and can cause the bit to get stuck (bind). This in-and-out motion is your manual replacement for the dust-clearing power of a better drill.
Step 7: Keep the Bit Cool
Drilling concrete generates a lot of heat, which can destroy your drill bit. After about 30-45 seconds of drilling, pull the bit all the way out and dip the tip into your cup of cold water for a few seconds. This cools it down and extends its life. Be careful—the bit will be hot!
Wipe it dry before you resume drilling. Repeat this process until you reach your desired depth.
Step 8: Clean Out the Hole
Once you’ve drilled to the depth marked by your tape, you’re done drilling. But there’s one last crucial step. The hole is full of fine dust. If you leave it in there, your wall anchor or screw won’t hold securely.
Use a shop vacuum with a narrow hose attachment to suck all the dust out. If you don’t have a vacuum, you can use a can of compressed air (wear your glasses!) or simply blow the dust out with a straw. A clean hole is a strong hole.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with the best technique, you can run into issues. Here’s how to solve them.
- Problem: The drill stops making progress.
You’ve likely hit a very hard piece of aggregate or a piece of steel rebar (reinforcing bar). Don’t force it. Try pulling the bit out, cooling it, and trying again. If you still can’t get through, you’ve probably hit rebar. The best solution is to abandon that hole and drill a new one an inch or two away. - Problem: The drill bit is smoking or glowing red.
Stop immediately! You are drilling too fast, not clearing dust enough, or not cooling the bit. Let it cool down completely. From now on, drill in shorter bursts (15-20 seconds) and use the in-and-out technique more frequently. Dip it in water between every burst. - Problem: My cordless drill battery dies quickly.
Drilling concrete demands a huge amount of power. This will drain cordless drill batteries very fast. It’s best to use a corded drill if you have one. If not, make sure you have a fully charged spare battery ready to go.
Conclusion: Yes, You Can Do It!
So, can you drill into concrete with a regular drill? Absolutely. It may not be as fast or effortless as using a powerful hammer drill, but for hanging shelves, art, or other small household projects, your standard drill is more than capable.
Success comes down to three simple things: using the correct masonry drill bit, applying firm and steady pressure, and using the in-and-out, cool-it-down technique. By following the steps and safety advice in this guide, you can confidently tackle that concrete wall and get your project done right.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Can I use a regular wood or metal drill bit on concrete?
No, you cannot. A regular drill bit is not hard enough to penetrate concrete. It will not create a hole and will be destroyed by the heat and abrasion almost instantly. You must use a masonry drill bit with a tungsten carbide tip.
2. How do I know what size masonry bit to use?
The size of the drill bit should match the wall anchor or screw you are using. The packaging for the screws or anchors will almost always specify the exact drill bit diameter required for a proper fit. For example, it might say “Use a 1/4-inch bit.”
3. Is concrete dust really that dangerous?
Yes. Concrete dust contains fine particles of crystalline silica. When inhaled, these particles can scar your lung tissue, leading to serious and permanent respiratory diseases. Always wear a dust mask (N95-rated is recommended) and safety glasses.
4. Corded or cordless drill: which is better for concrete?
A corded drill is generally better for drilling into concrete. It provides consistent, high power without the risk of a battery draining. A cordless drill can work for one or two small holes, but it will struggle and drain its battery very quickly.
5. How long does it take to drill one hole with a regular drill?
It depends on the hardness and age of the concrete, the size of the hole, and your technique. For a small 1/4-inch hole that is 1.5 inches deep, it could take anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes of patient drilling with a regular drill. A hammer drill could do the same job in under 30 seconds.
6. What should I do if my drill gets stuck in the hole?
If the bit gets stuck (binds), do not try to force it by running the drill. Stop immediately. Put the drill in reverse and try to slowly back it out. If that doesn’t work, you may need to gently wiggle the drill side-to-side while pulling backward or use pliers to turn the bit counter-clockwise to free it.
7. When should I give up and rent a hammer drill?
If you need to drill more than 4-5 holes, are drilling holes larger than 1/2-inch in diameter, or if your regular drill is getting excessively hot and making very slow progress, it’s time to consider renting a hammer drill. The time and effort you save will be well worth the small rental cost from a local hardware store.
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