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Can You Use a Hammer Drill as a Regular Drill? The Simple Guide
Yes, you can absolutely use a hammer drill as a regular drill. Nearly all hammer drills have a mode selector switch that allows you to turn off the hammering action. By setting it to “drill-only” mode, it functions just like a standard drill for projects involving wood, metal, or plastic.
Have you ever stood in the tool aisle, wondering if you need two different drills? Or maybe you bought a powerful hammer drill for one tough job—like mounting a shelf on a brick wall—and now it’s collecting dust. You wonder, “Can this beast of a tool handle simple tasks, too?”
It’s a common question, and the good news is you’ve likely made a very smart purchase. A hammer drill is more versatile than you think. You’re in the right place to learn how to unlock its full potential. Let’s walk through exactly how to switch modes, when to use it, and what makes it different from other drills.
What Is a Hammer Drill, Anyway?
Before we dive into the “how,” let’s quickly understand the “what.” Think of a standard drill. It spins a drill bit to cut a hole. It’s perfect for materials like wood, drywall, and plastic.
A hammer drill does that, too, but it has a secret weapon: a hammering action. Along with spinning, the drill chuck also pulses forward and backward very rapidly. These are not huge, wall-shattering blows; they are tiny, quick taps that happen thousands of times per minute.
This hammering action is designed to chip away at brittle, hard materials like:
- Concrete
- Brick
- Stone
- Mortar
- Cinder blocks
The combination of spinning (to clear away debris) and hammering (to pulverize the material) allows it to drill into masonry far more effectively than a regular drill ever could. Using a regular drill on concrete is slow, frustrating, and will quickly burn out your drill’s motor.
The Magic Switch: Finding and Using Drill-Only Mode
The key to using your hammer drill as a regular drill is the mode selector switch. This feature is what makes the tool so versatile. It allows you to turn the hammering function completely OFF.
When you turn off the hammer action, the tool stops pulsing and operates on pure rotational force, just like a standard drill.
Where to Find the Switch
The mode selector is usually a dial or a slider located on the top or side of the drill’s body, near the chuck (the part that holds the bit).
Look for symbols that represent the different modes. While they vary slightly between brands like DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Ryobi, they are generally universal:
- Drill-Only Mode: Represented by an icon of a drill bit. This is the setting you want for wood, metal, and plastic.
- Hammer Drill Mode: Represented by an icon of a hammer. Use this setting ONLY for masonry and concrete.
- Screwdriver Mode (on some models): Represented by an icon of a screw. This mode often works with the adjustable clutch to drive screws without stripping them.
How to Use Your Hammer Drill as a Regular Drill: A 4-Step Guide
Ready to get started? It’s incredibly simple. Here’s how to safely switch your tool over for everyday tasks.
Step 1: Locate the Mode Selector Switch
First, find the switch on your drill. It’s almost always a large, easy-to-turn dial on top of the drill’s gearbox. You will see the symbols for a hammer and a drill bit clearly marked.
Step 2: Switch to “Drill-Only” Mode
Firmly rotate the dial or push the slider until the indicator arrow points to the drill bit symbol. You might feel a solid “click” as it locks into place. This action disengages the internal hammering mechanism. Your hammer drill is now, for all intents and purposes, a regular drill.
Step 3: Choose the Right Drill Bit
This is a critical step! Just because you’re using a powerful drill doesn’t mean you can use any bit. The bit must match the material.
- For Wood: Use standard wood bits (like spade bits or brad-point bits).
- For Metal: Use HSS (High-Speed Steel) bits, often coated in titanium or cobalt for durability.
- For Plastic: Standard HSS bits work fine.
Important: Do NOT use masonry bits (the ones with a thick carbide tip) for drilling into wood or metal. They are designed to scrape and chip, not cut cleanly. They will tear up wood and skate uselessly across metal.
Step 4: Adjust Speed and Clutch Settings
Just like a premium regular drill, your hammer drill likely has adjustable speed and clutch settings.
- Speed Setting: Use a high speed (often marked “2”) for drilling small holes in wood or metal. Use a low speed (marked “1”) for driving screws or drilling large-diameter holes.
- Clutch Setting: The numbered ring behind the chuck is the clutch. For drilling, set it to the drill symbol to bypass the clutch and get full power. For driving screws, start with a low number and increase it until the screw is flush, preventing damage to the screw head or your material.
That’s it! You’re now ready to drill into wood, metal, or plastic with confidence.
When a Regular Drill Might Still Be Better
While a hammer drill is a fantastic all-in-one tool, there are a few situations where a smaller, dedicated drill might be preferable:
- Weight and Size: Hammer drills are built tough. Their gearboxes and hammering mechanisms add weight and bulk. For overhead work or long projects, a lighter standard drill can reduce fatigue.
- Tight Spaces: The larger size of a hammer drill can make it difficult to fit into tight corners or inside cabinets. A compact 12V drill driver excels in these scenarios.
- Delicate, Precision Work: If you’re an artist or woodworker doing very fine, precise work, the balance and lighter touch of a smaller drill might feel more comfortable and controllable.
- Cost: If you know you will never drill into masonry, you can save money by buying a high-quality standard drill instead of a hammer drill.
Hammer Drill vs. Regular Drill vs. Rotary Hammer: Clearing the Confusion
It’s easy to get these tools mixed up. Here’s a simple breakdown to help you understand their specific jobs.
Quick Comparison
- Regular Drill Driver:
- Action: Rotation only.
- Best For: Wood, metal, plastic, drywall, driving screws.
- Not For: Concrete or brick.
- Hammer Drill:
- Action: Rotation + very fast, low-impact hammering.
- Best For: An all-in-one tool for homeowners. Drills into brick, mortar, and light concrete. Also works perfectly as a regular drill for wood and metal when the hammer function is off.
- Not For: Breaking up concrete or heavy-duty masonry jobs.
- Rotary Hammer (or SDS Drill):
- Action: Rotation + slow, high-impact, piston-driven hammering.
- Best For: Professionals drilling many holes in dense concrete, light demolition, and tile removal. It is a specialized tool.
- Not For: General-purpose drilling in wood or metal. It’s too powerful and requires special SDS bits.
For more in-depth technical details, resources like Pro Tool Reviews offer excellent comparisons for professionals and enthusiasts.
A Quick Note on Safety
Power tools demand respect. Always follow basic safety rules:
- Wear Eye Protection: Sawdust, metal shavings, and debris can cause serious eye injury.
- Secure Your Workpiece: Use clamps to hold your material firmly in place so it doesn’t spin.
- Use Two Hands: For tough jobs, use the auxiliary handle that came with your hammer drill for better control and to prevent kickback.
- Know Your Surroundings: Be aware of what’s behind the wall you’re drilling into, like electrical wires or plumbing. For more on this, consult OSHA’s power tool safety guidelines.
Conclusion: Your Versatile All-in-One Power Tool
So, can a hammer drill be used as a regular drill? The answer is a resounding yes. It’s one of the most versatile and valuable power tools you can own, especially for a homeowner who might face a variety of projects.
By simply flipping the mode selector switch to the “drill-only” setting, you transform your masonry-conquering machine into a precise and capable tool for wood, metal, and everyday tasks. You haven’t just bought a hammer drill; you’ve bought a hammer drill and a powerful regular drill, all in one package.
So go ahead, grab that drill, switch it to the right mode, and tackle your next project with confidence!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Can I use a hammer drill to drive screws?
Yes! Switch it to “drill-only” mode (or “screwdriver” mode if it has one). Set the speed to low (setting “1”) and use the adjustable clutch. Start with a low clutch number and increase it as needed. This prevents you from stripping the screw head or driving it too deep.
2. Is a hammer drill too powerful for drilling into wood?
Not at all, as long as the hammer function is turned off. In “drill-only” mode, its power is comparable to a high-end regular drill. You can control the speed with the trigger, and the tool will perform beautifully in wood.
3. Will using a hammer drill damage wood or drywall?
It will only cause damage if you forget to turn off the hammer mode. The hammering action would pulverize and tear up soft materials like wood and drywall. Always double-check that you are in “drill-only” mode (the drill bit symbol) before starting.
4. Do I need special bits to use my hammer drill as a regular drill?
No. When you are in “drill-only” mode, you should use standard drill bits designed for the material you are working on (e.g., wood bits for wood, HSS bits for metal). You only need masonry bits when you are using the hammer function to drill into concrete or brick.
5. What’s the difference between a hammer drill and an impact driver?
They are very different tools. A hammer drill applies force forward (in-and-out) to chip at masonry. An impact driver applies rotational force (concussive twists) to drive long screws or loosen stubborn bolts. An impact driver is not for drilling holes in concrete.
6. Why is my hammer drill heavier than my friend’s regular drill?
The extra weight comes from the robust internal components. Hammer drills have a more complex gearbox and a durable hammering mechanism built in, which adds both weight and size compared to a simpler standard drill.
7. Can I use my corded hammer drill as a regular drill?
Yes, the principle is exactly the same for both corded and cordless hammer drills. Locate the mode selector switch, turn it to the drill-only setting, and you’re good to go.
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