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can a regular drill be used for concrete

August 2, 202511 Mins Read
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Can a Regular Drill Be Used for Concrete? A Beginner’s Guide

Can You Drill Into Concrete With a Regular Drill? The Surprising Answer

A person using a drill on a concrete wall.

Quick Answer: Yes, you can use a regular drill for concrete, but only for small, shallow holes (less than 1/2 inch in diameter). The key is to use a special tungsten carbide masonry drill bit. For anything larger or deeper, you will need a hammer drill to do the job effectively and safely.

Have you ever tried to hang a picture, a shelf, or a TV mount on a wall, only to find your drill just won’t go in? You push harder, the drill whines, and all you get is a tiny dent and a cloud of dust. If that wall is concrete, brick, or block, you’ve met one of DIY’s toughest opponents.

It’s a common and frustrating problem. You have a perfectly good drill, so why won’t it work? Do you really need to buy a whole new tool for one or two holes?

You’re in the right place. We’re going to break down exactly when you can use your trusty regular drill on concrete, what you need to make it work, and when it’s time to call for backup. Let’s walk through the simple steps to get your project done right, without wrecking your drill or your wall.

A comparison showing a wood drill bit, a metal drill bit, and a masonry drill bit with its distinctive carbide tip.

Understanding the Challenge: Why Is Concrete So Hard to Drill?

Before we dive into the “how,” let’s quickly understand the “why.” Why does concrete laugh at regular drill bits?

Unlike wood or drywall, concrete isn’t a single, uniform material. It’s a composite, a tough mixture of cement, sand, water, and hard, chunky stones called aggregate. When you drill into wood, the bit shaves away soft fibers. When you drill into concrete, you’re trying to pulverize rock.

A regular drill simply spins. It tries to scrape away material, which works great for wood but is incredibly inefficient against stone and hardened cement. It generates a massive amount of friction and heat, which can quickly dull or even melt a standard drill bit and burn out your drill’s motor.

The Right Tool for the Job: Drill vs. Hammer Drill

This is where understanding your tools makes all the difference. While they might look similar, regular drills and hammer drills operate very differently.

The Regular Drill: When It Works (and When It Doesn’t)

Your standard drill, whether it’s corded or cordless, works with one simple motion: rotation. It spins the drill bit to cut or scrape material away.

A regular drill can work for concrete IF:

  • You are drilling a small-diameter hole (e.g., for a plastic wall anchor, typically 1/4″ or 3/16″).
  • The hole is shallow (no more than an inch or two deep).
  • You use a brand new, high-quality masonry drill bit.
  • You have a lot of patience.

Trying to drill a large or deep hole with a regular drill will, at best, take a very long time. At worst, it will destroy your drill bit and overheat your drill’s motor, potentially causing permanent damage.

The Hammer Drill: The Homeowner’s Best Friend

A hammer drill does two things at once: it spins like a regular drill and simultaneously delivers a rapid, high-frequency hammering action (thousands of blows per minute). This powerful combination pulverizes the concrete in front of the bit while the spinning action clears the debris away.

This makes drilling into concrete, brick, and mortar incredibly fast and easy. Most modern hammer drills have a switch that allows you to turn the hammering function off, so you can use it as a regular drill for wood or metal, too. This makes it a versatile tool for any serious DIYer.

The Rotary Hammer: The Pro-Level Powerhouse

A rotary hammer is the hammer drill’s bigger, stronger sibling. It uses a piston mechanism to create a much more powerful, lower-frequency hammering blow. These are the tools professionals use for drilling large holes, breaking up concrete, or setting large anchors. For most homeowners, a rotary hammer is overkill, but it’s good to know what they are.

The Most Important Part: Choosing the Right Drill Bit

Even if you have a powerful hammer drill, it’s useless without the correct bit. You cannot, under any circumstances, use a standard wood or metal bit on concrete. It will be destroyed in seconds.

You absolutely must use a masonry drill bit.

What Is a Masonry Drill Bit?

A masonry bit is specifically designed to withstand the brutal nature of drilling into stone and concrete. Its secret weapon is the tip.

The very end of a masonry bit has a small, arrowhead-shaped piece of tungsten carbide welded to it. Tungsten carbide is an extremely hard and heat-resistant material. This tip does the hard work of chipping and pulverizing the concrete, while the spiral flutes of the bit carry the dust out of the hole.

Look for bits with a high-quality carbide tip. Cheaper bits may have tips that chip or break off easily, especially when used with a regular drill that generates a lot of heat.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Drill into Concrete with a Regular Drill

Alright, you’ve confirmed you only need a small, shallow hole, and you have your masonry bit ready. Let’s get this done. Remember: patience is key.

Step 1: Gear Up for Safety

This is non-negotiable. Drilling concrete creates fine silica dust, which is extremely harmful to your lungs. It can also send small, sharp chips of concrete flying.

Essential Safety Gear:

  • Safety Goggles: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Dust Mask: A P95 or N95-rated mask is crucial to protect your lungs from silica dust.
  • Gloves: Protect your hands from blisters and sharp edges.

Step 2: Mark Your Spot Clearly

Use a pencil or a permanent marker to mark the exact center of where you want to drill. A drill bit can easily “walk” or wander on a hard, smooth surface. To prevent this, take a nail or a center punch and a hammer, and give it a firm tap on your mark. This creates a small divot that will hold the tip of your drill bit in place as you start.

A close-up of a masonry drill bit starting to drill a hole in a concrete surface.

Step 3: Insert the Masonry Bit

Secure the masonry bit tightly in your drill’s chuck. Make sure it’s straight and not wobbly. If your drill has different speed or torque settings, set it to a low speed and high torque (if available). High speed will only generate more heat and won’t help you drill faster.

Step 4: Start Drilling Slowly

Place the tip of the bit into the divot you made. Hold the drill perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the wall. Begin drilling at a very low speed. Apply firm, steady pressure straight into the wall. Don’t lean on it with your full body weight, but be firm. The goal is to let the carbide tip slowly grind away the surface.

Step 5: Use the “In-and-Out” Technique

Once the hole is started, you can slightly increase the speed. The biggest challenge now is clearing the concrete dust out of the hole. If the dust builds up, it will increase friction and heat, and the bit will stop cutting effectively.

Every 10-15 seconds of drilling, pull the spinning bit partially out of the hole and push it back in. This motion helps the flutes of the bit pull the dust out. You’ll see a puff of dust each time you do this. This is the single most important technique for making progress.

Step 6: Let the Drill and Bit Cool Down

A regular drill and masonry bit will get very hot. Stop every minute or so and let both the drill motor and the bit cool down. You can touch the bit carefully (not the tip!) to gauge its temperature. If it’s too hot to touch, it’s definitely too hot to drill effectively.

Pro-Tip: Keep a small cup of water nearby. You can dip the tip of the drill bit into the water to cool it down quickly. Just be sure no water gets into the drill’s motor or vents!

Step 7: Check Your Depth and Finish Up

Periodically stop and check the depth of your hole. You can use a piece of tape on your drill bit as a depth gauge. Once you’ve reached the desired depth, pull the bit out one last time and use a vacuum or a can of compressed air to clean all the dust out of the hole for a secure anchor fit.

When to Stop and Get a Hammer Drill

Sometimes, you have to know when to call it. If you’ve been drilling for several minutes with firm pressure and the “in-and-out” technique and have barely made a dent, it’s time to stop.

Signs you need a hammer drill:

  • You are making almost no progress after a minute of drilling.
  • The drill bit is glowing red or smoking (stop immediately!).
  • You need to drill a hole larger than 1/2 inch in diameter.
  • You need to drill more than a few holes. The time and effort saved will be well worth it.
  • You hit rebar (a steel reinforcing bar inside the concrete). A regular drill will not get through this.

You don’t necessarily have to buy one. Most home improvement and tool rental stores will rent you a quality hammer drill and bit for a reasonable daily rate. For a one-off project, renting is an excellent option.

Safety gear including goggles, a dust mask, and gloves laid out on a workbench.

Conclusion: You Can Do It, With the Right Knowledge

So, can a regular drill be used for concrete? Yes, absolutely—within limits. For the small jobs that pop up around the house, your standard drill, paired with a good masonry bit and a patient approach, can get the job done.

The key is knowing the difference between a quick, small hole and a heavy-duty task. By understanding how the tools work, using the right technique, and prioritizing safety, you can confidently tackle that concrete wall and hang whatever you need. And for the bigger jobs, you now know that a hammer drill isn’t a luxury; it’s the right tool for the job.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Can I use a cordless drill on concrete?
Yes, the same rules apply. A modern 18V or 20V cordless drill has plenty of power for drilling small, shallow holes in concrete, as long as you use a masonry bit. Just be aware that it will drain your battery much faster than drilling into wood. Make sure you have a fully charged battery (or a spare) before you start.
2. How can I tell the difference between a regular bit and a masonry bit?
It’s all in the tip. A regular wood or metal bit comes to a sharp point or has a split-point tip. A masonry bit has a wider, arrowhead-shaped tip made of a different, slightly duller-looking material (tungsten carbide) that is brazed onto the steel shank.
3. Can drilling into concrete ruin my regular drill?
It can. If you push too hard for too long, you can easily overheat and burn out the drill’s motor. The immense strain is far more than what a regular drill is designed for. If you follow our guide—drilling for short bursts, keeping things cool, and not forcing it—you can minimize the risk for small jobs.
4. Do I really need to wear a mask?
Yes, 100%. Concrete dust contains crystalline silica, which can cause a serious and irreversible lung disease called silicosis. It’s not like wood sawdust. Always protect your lungs. This is a critical safety step highlighted by organizations like the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA).
5. How do I know what size masonry bit to use?
The bit size should match the anchor you plan to use. If you are using a plastic wall anchor, the packaging will tell you exactly what size drill bit to use for the pilot hole (e.g., “Use 1/4″ bit”). Using the wrong size bit will result in an anchor that is too loose or too tight to fit.
6. What do I do if I hit something really hard and stop making progress?
You’ve likely hit a piece of very hard aggregate (stone) or, in structural concrete, a piece of steel rebar. Stop drilling immediately. You can try moving your hole location up, down, left, or right by an inch and try again. A regular drill will never get through rebar.
7. Is it better to use a corded or cordless drill for concrete?
For this specific task, a corded drill often has a slight advantage because it provides consistent power and won’t lose torque as a battery drains. However, a powerful, modern cordless drill is more than capable if you follow the correct procedure.

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