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Can You Use a Regular Drill for Concrete? A Beginner’s How-To Guide
Yes, you can use a regular drill for concrete for small, shallow holes (under 1/2 inch deep). However, you must use a special tungsten carbide masonry drill bit. For larger jobs, a hammer drill is strongly recommended as it is much faster, easier, and better for your drill’s motor.
Have you ever needed to hang a shelf, a picture frame, or a small cabinet on a concrete wall, only to stare at your trusty regular drill and wonder if it’s up to the task? It’s a common problem for every DIYer. You don’t want to buy a new tool for a tiny job, but you also don’t want to destroy your drill or your wall.
You’re in the right place. While the pros will always reach for a specialized tool, we’ll show you exactly when and how you can get the job done with the drill you already own. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, from picking the right bit to using the correct technique, ensuring you get a clean hole without burning out your drill.
Regular Drill vs. Hammer Drill: What’s the Difference?
Before we dive into the “how-to,” it’s crucial to understand why this question even exists. The difference between a regular drill and a hammer drill is the key. Knowing this helps you understand the limitations and the proper technique.
- Regular Drill: A regular drill, whether corded or cordless, works with one simple action: rotation. It spins a drill bit at high speed to cut through materials like wood, plastic, and soft metals. It relies on the sharpness of the bit and rotational force to carve away material.
- Hammer Drill: A hammer drill does two things at once. It rotates like a regular drill, but it also adds a rapid, high-frequency hammering or “pulsing” action. These thousands of tiny, quick forward taps work to pulverize hard, brittle materials like concrete, brick, and stone. The rotation then sweeps the debris out of the hole.
Think of it this way: a regular drill tries to scrape its way through concrete, while a hammer drill chisels and scrapes its way through. The hammering action makes a world of difference, doing most of the hard work for you.
The Bottom Line
Using a regular drill on concrete forces the motor to work incredibly hard, generating a lot of heat and friction. For a single, small hole, it can manage. For multiple holes or deep holes, you risk overheating and permanently damaging your drill’s motor and bearings.
The Unsung Hero: Why You MUST Use a Masonry Bit
If you take only one thing away from this article, let it be this: you cannot drill into concrete without a masonry drill bit. It is not optional. Using a wood or metal bit is not only ineffective but also dangerous.
What Makes a Masonry Bit Special?
A masonry bit is designed specifically for hard, abrasive materials. You can easily identify one by its unique tip.
- Tungsten Carbide Tip: The tip of a masonry bit has a small, arrowhead-shaped piece of extremely hard metal, usually tungsten carbide, brazed onto the end. This tough tip does the actual work of chipping and grinding away at the concrete.
- Wide Flutes: The spiral grooves (flutes) on a masonry bit are often wider and deeper than on other bits. This design helps to efficiently carry the large amount of dust and debris out of the hole as you drill.
A standard drill bit for wood or metal has a sharp cutting edge designed to slice material. If you press that against concrete, the edge will become dull in seconds, get extremely hot from friction, and may even snap.
How to Drill into Concrete with a Regular Drill: A Step-by-Step Guide
Ready to make that hole? Let’s get it done safely. This method is best for drilling holes for small plastic anchors or Tapcon-style screws, typically 1/4″ (6mm) in diameter or smaller and no more than 1.5 inches deep.
Step 1: Gear Up for Safety
Safety First! Drilling concrete creates fine silica dust, which is harmful to breathe, and can send small, sharp chips flying. Always wear proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).
- Safety Glasses or Goggles: Non-negotiable. Protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Dust Mask (N95 Recommended): Protect your lungs from harmful concrete dust.
- Work Gloves: Protect your hands from blisters and scrapes.
Step 2: Gather Your Tools
- Your Regular Drill: A corded drill is better as it provides more consistent power and torque. A fully charged cordless drill can work for one or two very small holes.
- A New, Sharp Masonry Drill Bit: Make sure it’s the correct size for your anchor or screw. A dull bit won’t work.
- Measuring Tape & Pencil/Marker: For marking the exact spot.
- Hammer & Nail Set (or a tough nail): This is a pro-trick to get started.
- Shop Vacuum or Can of Compressed Air: For cleaning out the hole.
Step 3: Mark Your Spot and Create a Pilot Divot
Measure and mark the precise location for your hole with a pencil. Now for the most important trick to prevent your drill bit from “walking” or skittering across the smooth concrete surface:
- Take your nail set (or a sturdy concrete nail) and place its tip directly on your mark.
- Give it a firm tap with your hammer.
- This will create a small divot or indentation in the concrete. This tiny starting point will hold your drill bit perfectly in place as you begin to drill.
Step 4: Start Drilling – Low Speed, Firm Pressure
Insert the masonry bit into your drill and tighten the chuck securely. Set your drill to its lowest speed setting. High speeds will just create more heat and wear out the bit faster without helping you drill through.
- Place the tip of the masonry bit into the pilot divot you created.
- Hold the drill perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the wall.
- Begin drilling with slow, steady, and firm pressure. Don’t try to force the drill into the wall; let the bit and the drill’s torque do the work.
Step 5: The “Manual Hammer” Technique (Cool and Clean)
Since you don’t have a hammer function, you need to help the drill along and prevent it from overheating. This is the most critical part of the process.
- Drill for about 15-20 seconds at a time.
- Pull the drill bit all the way out of the hole. This does two things: it allows the concrete dust to fall out of the bit’s flutes, and it gives the bit and your drill’s motor a moment to cool down.
- Wipe the bit clean if needed, then re-insert it and drill for another 15-20 seconds.
- Repeat this in-and-out process until you reach your desired depth. It will be slow, but it’s the most effective way to succeed with a regular drill.
Pro Tip: To easily know when you’ve reached the right depth, measure the length you need on your drill bit from the tip and wrap a small piece of painter’s tape around the bit to act as a depth marker.
Step 6: Clear the Hole
Once you’ve reached your desired depth, it’s essential to clean all the dust and debris out of the hole. A dusty hole will prevent your anchor or screw from setting securely.
Use a shop vacuum with a narrow attachment to suck the dust out. Alternatively, a can of compressed air works well (just be sure to wear your safety glasses and turn your face away!).
When to Stop: Signs You Need a Hammer Drill
Sometimes, even for a small hole, a regular drill just won’t cut it. The concrete might be exceptionally old and hard, or you might hit something unexpected. Stop immediately if you notice these signs:
- Extreme Heat: If your drill is too hot to comfortably hold or you smell a “hot electronics” odor, stop. You’re about to burn out the motor.
- No Progress: You’ve been drilling with firm pressure for a minute and the hole is barely any deeper. Your bit is likely dull or the concrete is too hard.
- High-Pitched Squeal: A loud, metallic squealing sound often means you’ve hit steel rebar (reinforcing bar) inside the concrete. Do not try to drill through rebar with a regular drill. You will destroy your bit and get nowhere. You’ll need to move your hole location.
- Smoke: If you see smoke coming from the hole or the drill, stop immediately.
If you encounter any of these, it’s time to either rent a hammer drill from a local hardware store like The Home Depot or consider it a worthy investment for future projects.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- 1. Can I use a cordless drill for concrete?
- Yes, you can use a modern, powerful cordless drill for a very small, shallow hole in softer concrete or cinder block, provided you use a sharp masonry bit and the in-and-out cooling technique. However, a corded drill’s consistent power is much more effective.
- 2. What’s the difference between a hammer drill and an impact driver?
- This is a common point of confusion. A hammer drill delivers force forward, into the wall (in-and-out). An impact driver delivers rotational force, or torque, in short bursts (sideways). An impact driver is for driving long screws and bolts, not for drilling into concrete.
- 3. What happens if I use a regular wood or metal drill bit on concrete?
- The bit’s sharp cutting edge will be ground down to nothing in a matter of seconds. It will become extremely hot due to friction, potentially glowing red, and will be permanently ruined. It will not make a usable hole in the concrete.
- 4. How do I know if I’ve hit rebar?
- You’ll know. The drill will stop making forward progress almost instantly. You’ll often hear a high-pitched metallic grinding or squealing sound instead of the normal gritty sound of drilling concrete. The best solution is to abandon the hole and drill a new one at least a few inches away.
- 5. How long should it take to drill a hole with a regular drill?
- It will be slow. For a 1-inch deep hole, expect it to take several minutes of patient drilling, cooling, and cleaning. If it’s taking longer than 5-10 minutes for one small hole, the concrete is likely too hard for your drill, and you should switch to a hammer drill.
- 6. Do I need to use water when drilling concrete?
- For small-scale DIY drilling with a regular drill or hammer drill, you do not need water. This technique, called “wet drilling,” is typically used by professionals with specialized core drills to reduce dust and cool the bit during large, continuous jobs. For your purposes, the “in-and-out” method is sufficient for cooling.
Conclusion: It’s Possible, But Be Prepared
So, can you use a regular drill for concrete? Absolutely—with the right expectations and the right technique. For hanging that spice rack or securing a bookshelf to a concrete wall, your standard drill, paired with a fresh masonry bit and a bit of patience, can get the job done.
Remember the key takeaways: always use a carbide-tipped masonry bit, create a pilot divot, use low speed with firm pressure, and frequently pull the bit out to clear debris and cool down. Most importantly, listen to your drill. If it’s struggling, overheating, or making no progress, stop and get the right tool for the job.
A hammer drill will always be the superior choice, but for those small, occasional tasks, you now have the knowledge to drill into concrete confidently and safely. Happy building!
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