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Can I Use a Regular Drill for Concrete? The Surprising Answer & How-To Guide
The Quick Answer: Yes, you can use a regular drill for concrete, but only for small, shallow holes. You absolutely must use a special masonry drill bit. For larger jobs, a hammer drill is much better and will save you time, effort, and frustration. This guide will show you how to do it safely.
Have you ever needed to hang a shelf on a concrete wall? Or maybe mount a bracket in your garage or basement?
You grab your trusty drill, the one you use for everything. But when you press it against the concrete, nothing happens. The bit just spins and whines, making a tiny scratch and a lot of noise.
It’s a common and frustrating problem. You start to wonder, “Is my drill broken? Am I doing something wrong? Can I even use a regular drill for concrete?”
You’re in the right place. We’re going to answer that question clearly and simply. We’ll walk you through when it works, what you need, and the exact steps to take for success. Let’s get drilling!
Why is Drilling into Concrete So Hard?
Before we talk about drills, let’s understand what you’re up against. Concrete isn’t like wood or drywall. It’s not a single, soft material.
Concrete is a mix of cement, sand, water, and small, hard stones called “aggregate.” Think of it like a rocky cookie. The cement is the dough, and the aggregate is the super-hard chocolate chips.
When you drill, you aren’t just cutting through cement. You are trying to grind through solid rock and stone. A normal drill bit just can’t handle that kind of punishment. It will spin, get hot, and become dull in seconds.
The Big Difference: Regular Drill vs. Hammer Drill
This is the most important thing to understand. The type of drill you use makes all the difference.
What a Regular Drill Does
Your standard drill, whether it has a cord or is battery-powered, works with one simple action: rotation. It spins the drill bit very fast. This is perfect for making clean holes in wood, plastic, or metal, where the sharp edges of the bit can slice away the material.
Against concrete, this spinning action alone is not very effective. It’s like trying to push a screw through a rock. It just won’t go.
What a Hammer Drill Does
A hammer drill does two things at once. It rotates the bit just like a regular drill, but it also adds a powerful, rapid hammering action. It punches forward and back thousands of times per minute.
This combination is the key. The hammering action pulverizes the hard concrete and aggregate in front of the bit, turning it into dust. The rotation then sweeps that dust out of the hole.
It’s like using a chisel and a hammer, but incredibly fast. This is why a hammer drill can power through concrete with ease.
Quick Comparison
- Regular Drill: Spins only. Good for wood, metal, drywall. Struggles with concrete.
- Hammer Drill: Spins AND hammers. Designed for concrete, brick, and stone.
When Can You Get Away with Using a Regular Drill?
So, if a hammer drill is so much better, is there ever a time to use a regular drill? Yes! You don’t always need to buy or rent a special tool.
You can use a regular drill for concrete if:
- You are drilling a small hole. Think 1/4 inch (6mm) or smaller.
- You are drilling a shallow hole. No more than an inch or two deep. Perfect for plastic wall anchors for screws.
- You are drilling into softer material. Sometimes you’re drilling into a mortar joint between bricks, which is much softer than the brick or concrete itself.
- You have a lot of patience. It will be slow. Don’t expect it to be as fast as drilling into wood.
If you need to drill many holes, or any holes larger than about 3/8 inch (10mm), you should really stop and get a hammer drill. You will save yourself a huge headache.
The One Tool You MUST Have: Masonry Drill Bits
Even if you use a regular drill, you cannot use a regular drill bit. You will destroy the bit and get nowhere.
You must buy masonry drill bits. They look different from wood or metal bits.
A masonry bit has a special, extra-hard tip made of tungsten carbide. This tip is designed to grind and chip away at hard materials like concrete and brick without becoming dull immediately. The rest of the bit has wide grooves, called flutes, to help pull the concrete dust out of the hole as you drill.
You can find them at any hardware store, and they are not expensive. Make sure the package says “For Masonry” or “For Concrete.”
How to Drill into Concrete with a Regular Drill: Step-by-Step
Alright, you’ve decided your job is small enough for a regular drill. You have your masonry bit. Let’s do this safely and correctly.
Step 1: Gear Up for Safety
This is the most important step. Drilling concrete creates fine dust called silica dust, which is very harmful to your lungs. The drill can also send small, sharp chips of concrete flying.
Safety First!
- Eye Protection: Always wear safety glasses or goggles. Not sunglasses.
- Dust Mask: Wear a good quality dust mask, preferably an N95-rated respirator, to protect your lungs.
- Gloves: Work gloves can protect your hands from blisters and scrapes.
- Hearing Protection: Drills are loud, especially against concrete. Earplugs or muffs are a good idea.
Before you drill, also check the wall for electrical wires or pipes. A stud finder with an AC current detector can help you avoid a dangerous mistake. For more detailed safety guidelines, you can refer to resources from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA).
Step 2: Mark Your Spot Clearly
Use a pencil or a permanent marker to make a clear “X” where you want to drill. It’s hard to get a drill bit started on a smooth concrete surface because it tends to “walk” or wander away from your spot. Making a mark gives you a clear target.
Pro-Tip: To prevent the bit from wandering, take a nail or a center punch, place it on your “X,” and give it a firm tap with a hammer. This creates a small divot, which will hold the tip of your drill bit perfectly in place as you start drilling.
Step 3: Insert the Masonry Bit and Set Your Drill
Secure the masonry bit tightly in your drill’s chuck. If your drill has different speed settings, choose a lower speed to start. High speeds can cause the bit to overheat very quickly.
Make sure your drill is set to the standard “drilling” mode (the icon looks like a drill bit). If it has a hammer mode (the icon looks like a hammer), you have a hammer drill! In that case, you should definitely use the hammer setting.
Step 4: Drill with Patience and The “Pulse” Technique
This is where your technique matters most. Do not just push the drill against the wall with all your might. This will overheat the bit and your drill’s motor.
Instead, use the “Pulse” Technique:
- Place the bit on your mark and start drilling with firm, steady pressure.
- Drill for about 10 to 15 seconds.
- Pull the drill bit all the way out of the hole. This clears out the concrete dust and gives the bit a moment to cool down.
- Wait a few seconds, then insert the bit and drill for another 10-15 seconds.
- Repeat this in-and-out “pulse” until you reach your desired depth.
This process is slow, but it works. It protects your drill from burning out and keeps your masonry bit from getting too hot and becoming useless.
Step 5: Keep Things Cool
A masonry bit can get extremely hot. A very hot bit will lose its hardness and stop cutting. If you notice the tip starting to glow or smoke, stop immediately! Let it cool down completely.
Pro-Tip: Keep a small cup of water nearby. After pulling the bit out of the hole, you can dip the tip in the water for a few seconds to cool it down quickly. Be careful—it will sizzle! Make sure no water gets into your drill’s motor.
Step 6: Finish and Clean the Hole
Once you’ve reached the right depth, pull the bit out one last time. The hole will be full of fine dust. This dust needs to be removed so your anchor or screw will fit properly.
You can use a vacuum cleaner with a narrow hose attachment to suck the dust out. A can of compressed air also works well (just be sure to wear your safety glasses!).
When to Give Up and Get a Hammer Drill
Sometimes, even with the right technique, a regular drill just isn’t enough. It’s important to know when to call it quits to avoid damaging your tool or wasting hours of your time.
It’s time to get a hammer drill if:
- You make no progress. If you’ve been drilling for several minutes and the hole is barely any deeper, you’ve likely hit a very hard piece of aggregate.
- The drill is getting very hot. If the body of the drill is too hot to touch comfortably, you are overloading the motor. Give it a long rest, but it’s a sign the job is too tough.
- You have to push with all your body weight. This is unsafe and ineffective. The drill should do the work.
- You need to drill more than one or two small holes. The time you save will be well worth the small rental fee from a local hardware store.
Thinking about what drill is best for all your projects? Check out our guide on Choosing the Best Drill for Your DIY Projects.
Conclusion: A Little Patience Goes a Long Way
So, can you use a regular drill for concrete? Absolutely. For those small, quick jobs, your standard drill can be a hero—as long as you pair it with the right masonry bit and the right technique.
Remember the key takeaways:
- Small and shallow holes only.
- A masonry bit is not optional, it’s essential.
- Safety gear is your best friend. Protect your eyes and lungs.
- Use the “pulse” technique: drill, pull out, cool, repeat.
And most importantly, know when the job is too big. There is no shame in renting a hammer drill for tougher tasks. It’s the smart, efficient, and professional way to handle concrete. Happy building!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Can I use a cordless drill on concrete?
Yes, the same rules apply. A cordless drill can work for small, shallow holes in concrete if you use a masonry bit. However, drilling into concrete uses a lot of power, so it will drain your battery very quickly. Make sure you have a fully charged battery (or a spare) before you start.
2. How can I tell if I’ve hit rebar?
If you are drilling and suddenly come to a complete stop, and the drill bit won’t go any further no matter what, you have likely hit a piece of steel rebar (reinforcing bar). Do not try to force it. You will destroy your bit and get nowhere. The best solution is to abandon that hole and drill a new one a few inches away.
3. How long should it take to drill a hole in concrete with a regular drill?
It will be slow. For a 2-inch deep hole with a 1/4-inch bit, expect it to take several minutes of “pulse” drilling. If you are making no progress after a minute or two, check if your bit is dull or if you’ve hit something very hard. With a hammer drill, the same hole would likely take less than 30 seconds.
4. What’s the difference between a hammer drill and an SDS drill?
An SDS (Slotted Drive System) drill is a more powerful, professional-grade type of hammer drill. It has a special chuck that holds SDS bits more securely and delivers the hammering force more efficiently. For DIY use, a standard hammer drill is more than enough. An SDS drill is overkill unless you are doing serious demolition or drilling very large holes.
5. My masonry bit turned blue and stopped working. What happened?
The bit overheated. The blue or black color is a sign that the metal lost its temper (its hardness) due to excessive heat. This usually happens from drilling too long without stopping or applying too much pressure. Once a bit has been overheated like this, it is ruined and will no longer cut effectively. You will need to replace it.
6. Can I sharpen a dull masonry bit?
While it is technically possible to sharpen a tungsten carbide tip with a special silicon carbide grinding wheel, it’s a difficult process to get right. For most DIYers, it’s much easier and more effective to simply buy a new, sharp masonry bit. They are relatively inexpensive.
7. What is the best size masonry bit for hanging pictures or shelves?
This depends on the wall anchor you are using. Most plastic wall anchors for common screw sizes (like #8 or #10 screws) require a 3/16-inch or 1/4-inch hole. The packaging for the wall anchors will tell you exactly what size drill bit to use. Always match the bit to the anchor.
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